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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Lindfield Rocks 19-Aug-2010 At 5:01:50 PM hotgemini

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As an outsider, it feels a lot like you guys are shopping for reasons to oppose rings.

IMHO the main reason old carrots have a reputation for a low visual profile is because most were mild steel and rapidly rusted to match the surrounding rock. Appropriately recessed and camouflaged, either a stainless steel glue-in carrot (SSGIC) or a ring provides a suitable low-profile anchor.

Personally if it were me I'd go the ringbolts for three reasons, firstly they allow use without needing a bolt plate, secondly they slightly harder to vandalise and thirdly I hate standing on bloody carrots, every time I go to point perp I stand on at least one rap bolt and end up with a hex-shaped bruise in my foot.

If they are to be carrots, I'd encourage you to make them 10mm 316, long (say 80-125mm), add additional notching and roughening to the shaft, grind back the tips of the hex head so all bolt plates will fit and as mentioned previously glue them in with an appropriate epoxy.

I wouldn't however, I'd go the rings. My first choice would be the fixe #727 but I do not believe there are any in the country. Next choice would be the fixe #541, you might have some luck sourcing these (first ask steve from climbing anchors, then if you don't have any luck try mountain equipment). Third choice would be fixe 014.

With care and attention in placing and camouflaging with a glue/dirt mix, they blend in so well that the issue you will face is climbers completely failing to notice their existence. If you'd like I'll grab some photos to demonstrate the point.

Again I'd like to re-emphasise that these anchors should be there for 25-50 years, so to some degree you've got to consider how much use lindfield will see between now and 2060 and design/specify appropriately.

-Adam.