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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Topic Date User
First 17 lead at araps 2-Jul-2010 At 7:06:11 AM jgoding
I'd suggest Spellbinder(17**), Huey(18**) and Coming on Chris(16**) around that grade. The start of Huey is a bit tricky but once you get going the gear is great.

I wouldn't be suggesting Swinging unless you know how to place good tiny (0.2) cams (there is a reasonable small slot half way between the last bolt and the belay)

I wouldn't recommend Scorpion direct start either - it's just plain old hard! It spanked some pretty good, experienced Yosemite born and bred crack lovers. Not ideal for your first 17!

Oceanoid, while an awesome route I concur with Neil might be a bit intimidating and do more harm than good to someone wanting to experiment with leading at this grade. That said if you survive (which you most likely will) it would be the pants filling kind of awesome experience that you bore your friends with - greatest thing in the world, and the whole reason you started climbing (etc etc)

What about Dirge(17**) in the Organ Pipes? that's well protected and very good climbing?

The 17/18 across from Lemmington (called Aardvark) has a hard start and might be likely to put someone off leading as it's just hard. The rest of the route is great. A good one to top rope after doing D minor.

I'd highly recommend Preludes (18**) - tricky but kind of all fairly obvious and from memory well protected where you need it. Great position.

Climb safe, Climb happy, stick around for a long good time!

PS Star allocation is just my opinion, check your climbing guide! Everyone has their own style. A more reliable source of info than this forum!

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