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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Croatia - Paklenica and Split/Hvar 22-Jun-2010 At 4:37:30 PM rnm

Message

Hmmm. Climbed in Paklenica a couple of years ago in May and did not need to pay or have a helmet? Maybe a change in the rules and regulations. Anyhow, Pakllenica was cool. The short sport routes that line the road on the walk in are polished to buggery. Keep walking to the longer and more interesting karst stuff further up. Didn't use trad gear, but it all had a more adventurous feel about it. Accomodation was in a farm house nearby, rural and pleasent. We ate fresh produce from the farm every day.

Hvar is cool too, but different. Totally different. Sport climbing on a limestone crag by the turquiose sea. The crag starts on the land and continues around the corner as the beach ends, hence the deep water soloing. The land has been brought by a climber who has developed it, bolting 20 - 35m lines. Great fun, absolutely stunningly beautiful little harbor and bay, with a slack line to play on too. You can stay onsite, or anywhere on the island and get there by scooter. Here you pay the developer, who owns the land. He is a climber and lives in a modest ramshackle place under the crag.

Both good for a couple of days of a euro trip, but neither good enough to linger over in my opinion.

Heading north or south? If you are heading south, I loved Meteora - long crazy scary conglomerate routes in beautiful meadows. Pleasently unique amidst the bolted limestone that is the rest of the European scene.