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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Any potential new crags on Mt Blackheath? 27-May-2010 At 4:12:43 PM hipster
On 27/05/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>The mayor of Blackheath polices that area.

Too right, and you're still not welcome Neil. I'll be growing old out here and I don't want to look at what you do to cliffs every time I step out my back door.Have you given that thing that drags you around on it's lead a name yet, or are we still calling it your Ego?

Many suitors have climbed routes all over Mt Blackheath. There's G-Land,the car park is a little pull in 400m closer to Blackheath than Logan Brae carpark. Bash in from here 5 minutes or rap in and there's a few climbs in the 25-28 range, put up by Justin Clark and Grahame Fairbairn.The 28's a classic.
Out at Mt Blackheath proper there's some mid-range old routes on carrots. In recent years Damian Taylor has established some sport routes underneath and left of, looking out, the hanglider ramp.He reckons they're pretty good, but I've not been down there. The gully further along to the left, accessed by parking 200m back from the lookout and walking in on the borderline of the heath and trees, has another half dozen sport routes in the 22-25 range, reputedly good fun, put up by Lloyd Wishart around 2005.
Keith Bell has climbed most of the easier obvious cracks and some face routes as you venture further south (way round to the left, looking out). To access this amphitheatre you park at the locked gate which is about 400m along Mt Blackheath Rd (on the left)and walkin 300m or so to the lookout. Please be aware this is private land. This is where Ewbank's Arc de Triomphe is, but you won't see it from the lookout, it's hidden just to the right and underneath. There's a face route by Mike Garben at 22, an arete of Moss's on carrots at 24, and around to the left, a natural crack of Tom Williams at 22, plus a few more mixed routes.
Over to the right at the lookout is my route Mr Lucky28. I'll take anyone out anytime to do it, but there'll never be a topo as it's accessed thru a mate's private land.
Further round the amphitheatre to the left is a few routes by Bruce Cameron and Harry Luxford (still waiting to finish that crack Harry!), and 5 sport routes 22-25 on rings by me.
Hope this helps.

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