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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	Grotto Wall / Voodo Gully	(General)	Voodo Buttress	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Arapiles hidden gems 18-Aug-2005 At 3:18:39 PM duglash

Message

They're just really great climbing that doesn't get rated in the guides.

Sister Sol is an interesting, technical varied face that gets steeper to a pumpy traverse out of trouble,
then a steepening face off a ledge on biggening holds, just hard enough to keep your interest up but not
so hard as to get you worried. The gear is good all the way, two yellow aliens were nice but not essential.

In Phase is just round the corner from Kachoong. It starts with a tricky slab steepening to a tricky
midsection and then pumpy steep stuff. Gear is good (a bit thin at the start) but very pumpy to place. I
reckon it's hard for 23, would believe 24.

Cayenne has a hard start out a roof, possibly much harder if you're short, and then quality pumping up a
curving line.

All three are all natural gear.

Arapiles is a crag of hidden gems, I find a fair proportion of the three star routes not that special, but a
large proportion of the one star/ no star routes excellent. You might say this has to do with expectations,
but I would do Sister Sol any day over Second Coming for example.