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Crag & Route Beta

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All ACT	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

ACT beta 24-Mar-2010 At 12:45:38 PM deadpoint

Message

On 24/03/2010 evanbb wrote:
>On 24/03/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>>And....you have to try Euryproctus (10m, gr20), the classic sandbag crack
>>when you walk down. Put up in the 70's and yet to be onsighted in the
>modern
>>era, it has repelled climbers who can tick gr27.........I finally struggled
>>up with a half day, multi person siege!!
>
>Is it really that hard? It's a 'strong' line too. I like the look of it.

It's all about style and technique, the modern sports climbers are just not used to that style. If you spend a couple of months with you hands in a crack it seems to get easier.

That said Euryproctus is not you average crack, you have to head out through a ~2m roof with some sick stemming, you need a pretty good reach, I am not so sure how shorter people would go on it.

I know a few years ago (when the fires were around) I spent the whole winter every weekend going to Nowra, my sport climbing went from comfortable on 20's to red pointing 27-28. Then when I went back to Boroomba and jumped on a slabby 19 - Echidna , I quickly realized my footwork was totally lacking, I crimped my way up the whole climb making it totally desperate, it seemed like a Nowra 25. A few more visits, with the slab brain enabled it was a walk in the park, hands free rests on every move and graded just right.