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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Gymwear Wall & bumbly fun 6-Jul-2005 At 7:07:31 AM rhinckle
Message
went there with Jeff on a cold and moist 4thjuly.
hoping to finish projects and get grade confirmation.

my current judgement on gymwear wall:
imagine a climbing wall created by iain sedgeman,,,

checked out quarry wall. too moist & cold.
hiked up to dog rocks.
where it was as moist and colder and windier.
i peeled off a couple of things. jeff did better.
numb fingers wind chill: bugger this. time for a hot lunch.
back at quarry.
i tried to lead 'pink hose with helmet', gave up because the pro was so totally untrustworthy. realized why i was afraid to do it on my own. think it may be more like 16.
jeff did the already unpleasantly crumbly 'shirts in the gym'.
had to talk him through the crux move, but once you see it it's easy... perhaps 15.
everything else was too wet.

not sure how much of the crumbly feel was from washed down stuff from vegetated top of cliff, so i won't can it entirely...

we also had a go at a fairly featureless slab, in another part of the quarry, but without a brush it wasn't a goer.

i aided up a tiny crack on it on toprope, but lacked the courage to follow through on crumbly top out with top rope set up 4m to right, managed to extract my gear before pendulum fall rope dislodged head sized rock, which just missed jeff.

by now it's dark. a day out and i had not managed to lead a single climb.
forget gymwear wall for the winter. time for y-rock for me

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