It is completely retarded, and quite scary. Like so many things in the States, I think it comes down to "that is just the way we do it"... suggesting another possibilty usually results in a blank stare.
Those that rebolt should get a lot of credit, and I'm reluctant to criticise individuals that put in time, effort and money. But even a big organisation like the ASCA seems to be fixated on expansion bolts (http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/howtorebolt.htm).
At Red Rocks for example I climbed past numerous new looking hangers that were stamped with ASCA, that I pushed in and hand tightened. They had that disturbing worn flaring on the edge of the hole. Scary.
Anyhow, I concur. Frustrating. |