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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Tuesday Night Bouldering: The rating game 27-Mar-2011 At 6:25:11 PM egosan

Message

On 27/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>The Ewbank system is not intended to simply grade the hardest individual
>move on a climb though the grading system is often described this way.
>Ewbank explained "Grading takes the following into consideration: Technical
>difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller
>factors. As these are more or less all related to each other, I have rejected
>the idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e. one for exposure, one for technical difficulty,
>one for protection etc. Instead the climb is given its one general grading,
>and if any of the other factors is outstanding, this is stated verbally
>in the short introduction to that climb"
>
>Really, the one general grade most often just takes into account technical
>difficulty, not all of that. As it should.

Well I think we can agree on this. Now what's all this nonsense about bolts?

edit -- Upon rereading your post, davidn, I find it necessary to ask for clarification. There is some ambiguity in your use of pronouns.

The Ewbank grade takes into account all the odd factors like gear, difficulty, exposure.
We agree that this is the way Ewbank grades are defined. True/false?

Many grades today because of the influence of sport climbing only really reflect the technical difficulty. Agree/Disagree?

You believe that the grade should only reflect the technical difficulty. True/False

You like that the grade takes into account all possible factors? True False.

Cheers,