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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Should GriGris be alllowed in climbing gyms 10-Feb-2011 At 12:25:57 PM ..::- Chris -::..

Message

I think getting certified for each type makes sense perhaps have a colour chart on the lead pass / tag so it's easily viewable by gym staff.

Green - Eddy
Silver - Gri gri
White - ATC
Blue - All of the above.

I use the Eddy mostly indoors as I climb at bayside, I don't find them too bad, I still however prefer my Gri-Gri.

Unfortunately I have found of late when I’ve been outdoors the first lead or two I try and feed it out ATC / Eddy style which doesn't work well for the old grigri due to habbits formed at the gym...

In regards to gri-gri / autolocks failing, I’ve heard about it happening but in 15 years of climbing never SEEN it happen, mind you I’ve never really required the gri gri to autolock as I am always on the brake at the right time, which comes from practise and also the ability to "read" when to feed and when to brake, when a climber is pushing into their personal pumped / fall zone and also taking part in reading the route, are there dangerous clips? are there run out sections? I try to minimize risk by using all the information I can gather BEFORE the climber sets off.

This is Not always possible but these things help balance the safety and also send / tickage side of things in yours and the climbers favour. If I am working a known route and have a new belayer I usually take the time to point out some "belay" strategies for know hard clips i.e. ....." I find the 3rd clip desperate, I will basically head up to the small crimp on the right and clip from there so if ya can be ready to feed."

It Just means I can relax knowing the belayer SHOULD be ready for what might be a desperate clip for me.

Overall my .02 is all devices are safe as long as people are trained / assessed correctly and thoroughly.

Chris.