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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Should GriGris be alllowed FOR LEADING in gyms? 9-Feb-2011 At 10:10:51 PM garbie

Message

*Edited this* - just talking about leading.

(We have a normal ATC attached to a tie-down strap and a"Slo-go" as the top anchor for top-roping, a set-up that we're happy with.)

Should Gri Gris or other "assisted braking" devices be allowed for leading at your local gym?

We're having an existential moment, going to the core of trad/sport indoor/outdoor debate. A couple of arguments for and against:

For the ban:
1: they are often used badly, not as "recommended", and we can't be going around teaching people the correct technique.
2: staff at the gym have trouble monitoring whether they're threaded correctly/used properly etc.

Against the ban:
1: a lot of climbers use them on weekends, so to ask them to use an ATC or whatever at the gym is asking for trouble, as they are in the habit of using their favourite "assisted braker" and might "forget" they're not using it at the gym.
2: let them use what they want, its their responsibility to use it properly and if they have an accident its their fault.

Mike/SICG