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General Climbing Discussion

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A fistfull of steel (the punchup continues) 17-Jan-2011 At 2:17:32 PM Phil S

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On 16/01/2011 cogsy wrote:
>...I did not put a "low bolt" in. You still need the first cam placement before you clip the bolt.

I stand corrected (and the high first bolt was a pain, even for someone as tall as myself). I really glad you didn't add a low bolt - it's still a sport route, just not like the new ones. And that's the whole point - these routes exemplify an evolutionary period in sport climbing.

One of the things I really like about routes like WW and 80 Minute Hour is that there is no way to take the bold starts out of the route - ie. no stick clipping. Prospective leaders are right to pause, right to wonder if these moves are OK to down-climb and sensible to walk away is they don't feel up to it.

This isn't a retro-bolting thread. The fact is that if these routes are to have gear replaced but not added to they will still be outside the mold of current sport routes and that's a great thing.

So I say again. I vote for preserving the County with all its character, charm and whimsy intact.