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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

undersized carrots at the county 12-Jan-2011 At 1:12:42 PM gordoste

Message

On 12/01/2011 Wendy wrote:
>I was at the Gallery yesterday and I have concluded after a fairly challenging
>round of spot all the bolts on Monkey Puzzle from the ground that it is
>far easier to see all the holds than the bolts. ie, our use of chalk has
>far greater visual impact than bolts with hangers.

So you looked at 1 crag which would have to be close to having the most chalk in the whole country and concluded that chalk has greater visual impact...

Rebolting should not be done with the latest standards - it should be done with the latest hardware appropriate for the area. Please don't dismiss important historical and ethical issues with the label "some people's obsession". Safety is number one but there is always a balance to be struck, otherwise trad climbing would not exist.

Carrots may or may not be the answer at Cosmic Country - I have no idea. Realistically, whoever rebolts the routes will decide, and whatever they do it will upset somebody (at least for a little while). If you care enough, go and do it. As long as what you do is safer than what was previously there, anybody who chops it will look like a chump.