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General Climbing Discussion

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undersized carrots at the county 11-Jan-2011 At 4:34:07 PM gordoste

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On 11/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>On 11/01/2011 gordoste wrote:
>>... Any bolt replacements
>>at Buffalo (and they will be needed) should be stainless carrots as they
>>are definitely part of the experience there.
>Definitely disagree. Fiddling hangers on overdriven carrots at Buffalo
>was always the pits. Try the first one Beg, Borrow or Steal. Overdriven
>and the only thing between you and the ground a dodgy cam a long way off.
>Contrived danger like that is just rubbish.
>I'm quite happy for any carrots I've placed there to be replaced by FHs,
>rings or whatever.

The overdriven part is a flaw in the placement of particular bolts, not the carrot in general.

And of course it's contrived - if you want less danger just place more bolts! Same with trad - it's a conscious decision NOT to place bolts.

IMO the carrot is a good compromise between trad and sport on unprotectable terrain.

But the biggest plus with carrots IMO is that you really can't see them. Have a look at Jo Goding's climbs on the Mothballs (which he has admitted were a mistake). Then tell me you want rows of rings on all those lovely clean slabs at the Hump and the Horn.