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General Climbing Discussion

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Anchoring into gravels 26-Nov-2010 At 7:54:52 PM rocksinmyhead

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As ODH said, there's a lot of things of other things to consider besides the anchor, like rope abrasion and rockfall. If you haven't already, you'll might have better luck talking about this side of things with cavers experienced in Single Rope Technique than with climbers. Cavers tend to spend more time abseiling and ascending fixed ropes rigged on dirty, horrible rock that no-one in their right mind would climb.

If you're going ahead with this, then the suggestion about the star pickets is probably the best one.

The SES used to swear by a 3-2-1 system of solid 1.2m long pickets for any lifting involving body weight. I think the pickets were about 40 - 50mm in diameter.

Bang in the first three pickets next to and touching each other, until at least half, preferably two thirds of their length is buried, Point them away from the load by about 30 degrees. Bang in the next two, again at about 30 degrees, behind the first three (i.e. opposite the load) so you can tie off the top of the first set of three pickets to the bottom of the next two, with the rope at a right angle to the pickets. Bang in the last one behind and in line with the others and again, tie off the top of the second set to the bottom of the last one. Attach your rope to the bottom of the set of three pickets.

This setup would weigh a lot. Put that field assistant to work!