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Topic Date User

The carrot patch..? 1-Sep-2010 At 12:01:36 PM arniearms

Message

On 31/08/2010 Blah wrote:

>Umm... and that helps how? There is nothing in that post that helps your
>cause ... just because they are used does not make them safe. Granted,
>I see few circumstances in which a top-rope anchor will pull, or the hanger
>rotate in such a way as to lever off in a situation like Lindfield. That
>said if Lindield was twice the height (is not a bouldering area, where
>a crash pad will suffice) I would not risk my life on one old carrot. As
>a lead bolt they are archaic and dangerous - the bolt may be ok, but the
>hanger will always be the weak link.

but lindfield is a toprope or bouldering crag, 1 carrot should be enough, can easily be tested or backed up by a tree, replaced in due time like any anchor. a bomber anchor should have atleast 2 bomber points of protection, and there are plenty of 2 or 3 carrot anchors on clifftops i trust my life on. lindfield is about aprox 7m so 1 toprope bolt does not worry me as long as it isnt showing bad signs of wear.

On 31/08/2010 climbertron wrote:
>Isn't reducing the chance of user-error a good reason to go with rings?

rings on clifftops could add the danger of tripping. as lower off anchors at sport crags they work well.

On 31/08/2010 Blah wrote:
>... and yet i have pulled two carrots and no rings in 20 years of climbing...

2 carrots in 20 years is not alot. i hope not to pull 2 rings or U's in the next 10 years, time will tell.

there are alot of aging carrots that need replacing with glue in carrots or rings, depending on the original developers vision for the crag - sport, or oldschool, and a bit of common sense.