General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Edges	1-Sep-2010 At 9:11:38 AM	TonyB
Message
I bought a fingerboard/hangboard a couple of years ago for climbing training. I'd come to assume that I was having good days and bad days, when the time I could hang on the smallest edges varied so greatly. I always use an open grip. I've now discovered that having my finger tips at 70 degrees to the board (wrists turned outwards) gives me more than double the hang time of having my fingers at 90 degrees to the board. Perhaps the effect is now partly psychological, I don't know. Some time ago, I did come across an article that studied the size of edges vs the load that could be supported (an almost linear relationship). Has anyone seen any investigation on the best angle at which to hold small edges ?

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