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General Climbing Discussion

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The carrot patch..? 24-Aug-2010 At 9:41:08 AM Paul

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On 24/08/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>On 23/08/2010 Paul wrote:
>>Because they are cheap, you can use capsule glue if you are only placing
>>a few (no messy calking guns).
>
>*capsule glue has a pretty bad track record in this country, perhaps because
>of your next point....
>
>>They require very little skill to install.
>
>*this is not an agument in their favour!
>
>>Glue in carrots are just as safe as ring bolts,
>
>*safer as there is no twisting force possible. However you need a fixed
>hanger. Keyhole brackets definately AREN'T strong enough (reference- VCC
>testing 1999) and a few come off every year. Once someone is killed they
>probaly won't look quite as appealling.

Most of my keyhole brackets say either 2200kg or 22kn on them, seems strong enough in theory.
Are there any cases of bolts plates coming off which didn't involve the use of wire gate karabiners or under size bolts?
>
>
>>possibly more safe than u bolts because there is less possibility of
>air pockets in the glue due to the twisting nature of their installation.
>
>
>*true
>
>Some places in europe that have stoped the use of u bolts for this exact
>reason.
That was what a German climbing friend told me, it is possible that he was miss informed however I believe him to be a ligitimate source.
>
>*false