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General Climbing Discussion

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Boganville 13-May-2010 At 12:54:16 PM Linze

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This thread sucks! I don’t know these ‘friends’ very well, but despite the fact that their use of glue can be a bit liberal and that they have been a bit cheeky in bolting lines that have been spied by others (comment made to appease my friends), they have put a massive amount of effort into developing new lines and access and no way deserve to be the subject of this much slagging, especially when most of those that have slagged them off will probably fall on one of their bolts this weekend.

I initially met one of these ‘friends’ for the first time at another one of the crags that they had developed and they didn’t really act like they ‘owned it’ at all, they were happy to sell the quality of the routes that they had bolted.
Did these ‘friends’ ever claim ownership of this crag? or just ownership of their opinions about and knowledge of the routes? which is something that they DO own. Are they really compelled to divulge this info for the benefit of individuals or a community that isn’t gonna give them anything useful back, or maybe they just because they cant be f^%ked sitting down and compiling it, which is fair enough too?
I doubt they want to stop you from clipping the bolt that they placed, they are just not gonna hold your hand through the process. You can still go and climb at Bville without them telling you about it, just go and find it (we all know it is on narowneck) and choose a line and climb it, although it may be hard for some to work out if they like it or not without someone telling them how many stars it has...

If it was me that had bolted so prolifically, i wouldn’t care if ppl climbed the routes, but there is no way I would go out of my way to help the whole world find them especially if it was going to mean flocks of squawking geese hanging off the wall every Sunday...

I know bugger all about ‘onsight’ except for his productions, and owe many a good day out to the hard work put into the previous guides, as will prob be the case with the new. But seeing as the brand has much to benefit out of momentum in the Bluies climbing scene, and given that the ‘friends’ are such prolific bolters, i don’t really see any problem with a friendly swap of handful of bolts (which is what seems to be what they wanted rather than bucket loads of cash as many seem to have assumed) for a significant amount of info and the time that it takes to deliver it (with the proviso that any subsequent route info was given over freely)... just seems like a bit of mutual back scratching to me... everyone wins – especially us bottom feeders who do bugger all... and I would similarly expect the ‘friends’ to accept a tokin payment that was far less than the economic value of the routes bc they have already got plenty of other value out of them...

It is funny to see that people seem fine with the idea of some people gaining out of labour related to climbing but not others... and that support in this thread went straight to the side that is going to benefit the bottom feeders in the short term...

as an aside - i think that "cogsy's" assement of BoganVille as 'brilliant'is probably stretching it a bit =)