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General Climbing Discussion

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THE OFFICIAL STOKED THREAD! 9-Apr-2010 At 9:08:09 PM WM

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On 8/04/2010 Wendy wrote:
>>I tend to agree with Wendy re a likely decline in climbing grades (at
>least initially), due the boldness element is curbed when you become responsible
>for others.
>
>I wasn't even thinking about grades or boldness ... just simple things
>like time and sleep which are quite conducive to being able to go climbing.

my climbing has actually significantly improved since kids. most of my 25s and 26s, and all my 27s, have been post kids.
yes the occasional bout of sleep deprivation can affect things.
yes I have toned it down a lot on the boldness scale. (3 cheers for preplaced gear, bolts, and stick clips!).

the key benefit IMO is that having kids actually forced me to get organised. My week is now much more scheduled, which means i know exactly what my training window is. I also know that if I don't go there's no second chance to train for the rest of the week. Talk about a motivation to drag your arse off the couch. As a result I train at least 10 times MORE than when I was kidless and lazy and could just say "I might go tomorrow instead" - which in the past lead to me not going to the gym for years at a time (literally!).

PS: to acknowledge the thread topic (sort of): I'm anti-stoked about the Grampians Bouldering Guide.
- it's actually a "NorthWest flank of the Mt Zero Range Bouldering Guide". Sure this is where to find a good concentration of grampians bouldering but the coverage would be less than 10% of the area of the grampians so its a very misleading title IMO!! The omission of the significant Vic Range areas is the thing that annoys me most
- the included areas are already ~80% covered (for free!) by the hard work of Steve Kelly and (forgethisname) on the online ACA guide. Ok so the print guide goes to slightly greater depth but it's merely an incremental layer of info on the already-described areas, there is definitely no great quantum leap of coverage. to me it smacks of taking the easy option - no wonder it was so quick to produce
- the grammar/typos/proof reading is shithouse (others might say this is to be expected from your average boulderer!! ;P )
- the pics and layout/design are good

i grabbed it in a rush one day without having a flick first. I think a 5 minute flick in the shop before buying would have convinced me to keep my money.