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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Anchor testing (PV)-commercial climbing sites Vic 13-Mar-2010 At 8:44:09 AM jim titt

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I doubt I have ever read more misleading bollocks about anchor testing in my life!
There is only one European standard for rock anchor testing (for outdoor applications) and for good reason, 15kN axial and 25kN radial. Anything else is penny pinching, ignorance, stupidity or just plain corner cutting with other lives at stake.

Top roping is where the belayer is at the anchor and bringing up a climber from below, unless access to this anchor is exclusively from below and there is no possibility that anyone ever climbs above the anchor for any reason (i.e.to walk off or set up the belay) then one bolt is sufficient with a back-up, otherwise this anchor is considered a multi-pitch anchor and two bolts are recommended.
Bottom roping is where the belayer is at the foot of the cliff where one anchor with a back-up anchor (generally the next lower bolt or a chain-linked second bolt) are considered acceptable.
All (commercial) users of in-situ anchors are required to be sufficiently trained to be able to assess the condition and quality of the anchors they will use on the day of use. Previous tests are not considered a valid indication of an anchors viability on the day of use due to possible rock deterioration, glue deterioration, corrosion, geological movement, damage due to rockfall or overloading, wear etc. It is the responsibility of every user to judge the suitability of an anchor at the time of use. Evaluation of the anchors is an essential requirement of the risk assesment which must be performed for every activity session.

These are the current acceptable standards (and terminology) in Europe for commercial operators of outdoor venues for both the contrrolling bodies and insurance companies. We know because we install and certify this stuff every week. Either you use the European standards fully and correctly or don´t use them at all, your legal council will be able to explain this to you.

Proof testing anchors in the meaning of the current discussion is worthless.

If you want any help or advice then mail me at sales@bolt-products.com