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Sydney climbing gyms - my thoughts so far 17-Feb-2010 At 2:05:32 PM garbie

Message

On 17/02/2010 maxdacat wrote:

>- routes look great at St Peters but I didn't get to try them, but the
>number of lead routes seemed dwarfed by the cats cradle of top ropes but
>i imagine this is just the market in which they are operating.
>
yep 90% like to toprope, makes gyms less elitist here than in Europe i think.

>Dislikes:
>

>- neither seemed to have any routesetting roster on display so I couldn't
>get much of a feel for how often things change.

As Stu said boulders are changed regularly and around a dozen new routes are set each
week (Mondays). They are then tested and tweaked over the following days - Tues and
Wed mainly. Its easy to find the new routes - they're the clean ones...

>- minor gripe, the noise of the fans at SICG is a bit OTT, do they really
>need that many going all the time?

you want a bit of noise or a lot of heat?

>Further to mats....here are a few images of the ones i've used back in
>London. The Castle has 5 different areas all with thick sturdy matting
>with a thich fabric outer which covers any joins
>
>http://www.castle-climbing.co.uk/index.php?
option=com_datsogallery&Itemid=132&func=detail
>catid=5&id=219

They look thin - are they better?

>The Westway has the same but given its height has an additional moveable
>mat for extra cushioning:
>
>http://www.westwaysportscentre.org.uk/climbing
>
>in both cases matting abutts the panels.
>
Not sure about the movable mat idea - seems to be admitting that the general mat is too
thin when you come off the top? What if you miss the mat?