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General Climbing Discussion

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Should we stop placing carrots? 5-Jan-2010 At 4:12:34 PM The Keeper

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Stumbled upon these in my cyber travels - good to see some visuals and I particularly like the work Claw is doing at Pierce's Pass. For the record, I am no real authority on any of this - have never placed a bolt in my life - but I maintain a healthy scepticism of all fixed bolts. If something looks or feels dubious, by all means back it up, Redundancy is a good thing in climbing.This discussion is highly informative . Maybe a slightly rad idea might be for some entity to sponsor a bolt workshop attached to some event at some appropriate locale involving Claw, Neil, and others with the technical know how and experience - covering off all of the myriad variables that go into this issue - and open it up to see demonstrations, questions, answers etc. VCC or the
Blueies climbing festival entree come to mind as venues. Proper bolting is a serious issue - there are folks with little experience who just grab the hammer or gun and go do their thing - I recall a local guide here saying she would only trust bolts installed by a particular individual reflecting her assessment of some pretty manky placements by people who really have little expertise or exprience placing them.
There is a tremendous amount of expertise embedded in this thread and it would be good to get it more broadly and effectively shared within the climbing community.

Pierce's Pass : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE

Brooyar Carrot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tGSBYr1gOo

Resin glue bolt placement: http://www.youtube.com/watch?=YD5oshzP4Do