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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The greatest unfinished problems in Victoria 30-Dec-2009 At 6:23:21 PM Dave C
On 24/03/2003 phil_nev wrote:
>How bout the aid route in the youies Orpheous and the underworld.... Attempted by kimbo and almost freed till a hold broke off.... Dont know if its at all possible but it is definitly unfinished.....

While Kim did finally break the crucial hold on his favoured sequence, he did also try a different sequence but was not quite strong/lanky enough to make it work. As Dalai said 6 years ago, those efforts were to the left of the original aid line, I reckon some of the strong bouldering freaks around now would be quite capable of finishing either Kim's version or possibly even the old aid line.
There are less than a handful of other possibly worthwhile things to look at in the Youies area (and I emphasise the word POSSIBLY!)
A direct finish to Kim's 'Broken Dreams' is probably the best thing left in the area. Instead of traversing left into the hideous fist crack of Orpheus, pull over the little roof and head up & left to finish on the very prow of the buttress,
Out on the NW Outcrops, the big slab/wall in between Virgo & Talmud will definitely go with a few bolts. You could start up Virgo or there is a possible independent start up a little seam.
Out west at Granite Road there are a couple of prospects either side of the boulder-choked gully on the roadside face. The steep wall on the left has some worrying looking flakes but I roped down and had a look many years ago and they're pretty solid. To the right there is a vague hanging arete with plenty of rather sharp looking holds after what I suspect would be a bouldery start. Of course, access might be the problem out at Granite Road, particularly as wielding a power drill would probably attract some attention!

Oh, nearly forgot, there's a bolted thing left of Drugs Over London on the Overlap Wall. Sharp, fingery and the finish really may be a bit too blank but what the hell!

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