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General Climbing Discussion

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Australian Grading 26-Aug-2009 At 5:23:14 PM mikepatt

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Hi Mel,

Without going into all the history (and mystery) of the Ewbank grading system, yes, you're correct in your assumption that climbers may climb different grades depending on whether it's a sports climb or a trad climb. Check out the Climbing partners wanted, Southern Highlands post for a perfect example. I know some people who'll climb 21 on bolts then scare themselves silly leading at their limit at 12 on trad stuff. Personally I've only climbed about 2 grades harder on bolts than on trad.

Also be aware that the grading system has been interpreted (and misinterpreted) differently in different parts of the country.

Basically, in my opinion you can only expect the grading system to be consistent across a small area, a bit like the Yorkshire Grit/Scottish VDs etc etc variations in the U.K.

Hopefully, but not always, you should find an increase in grades equates with an increase in difficulty.. start low then work your way up. Try only to compare like with like; cracks with cracks, slabs with slabs etc. If you excell at a particular type of climbing you may be able to push the grades in that style. Also areas vary greatly in the intrinsic quality of the rock and the natural protection possibilities. There are quite a lot of 'mixed climbs', that is mixed protection (as opposed to mixed free/aid) with the odd bolt or two (quite often simply bolts without hangers) which require special bolt plates which you need to carry with you. These bolts will usually be mentioned in the climb description.

Despite the obvious discrepancies you should be able to get used to it quickly. Do be aware though of some climbs such as Missing Link at Arapiles. Graded 17 in the Ewbank system I've heard that it's equivalent to about E2.

What grade are you climbing at the moment?