On 24/08/2009 brendan wrote:
>so just to ease everyones mind, roberstonja (jason) is not a bolt nazi
>we have been in the Blue mountains for the last 3 days and have had fun
>climbing and clipping bolts, however that is the blue mountains, and every
>area has there own ethics and i think this is where the intial problem
>is. Jason is not complaining about someone painting numbers on a boulder
>in Fontainebleu or bolting a climb in Nowra, he is complaining about someone
>bolting a belay in a traditional climbing area, he obviously feels pissed
>off as someone has taken it upon themselves to bolt a belay on a trad route
>that was not bolted on the first ascent, the route sounds like a peice
>of shit anyway. Its the principal, just like when Robert McMahon & Gerry
>Narkowicz chopped there own abseil anchor on Ben Lomond to prove a principal
>about not bolting on Ben Lomond, if the belay was fiddly and gear hard
>to find when he was preparing the route for the guidebook maybe he should
>have included that in the guidebook, at the end of the day i don't really
>care, i just want araplies to be a trad cliff with strong ethics, look
>at the UK they have tiny little cliffs that are not world class but there
>ethics are what makes the place what it is, its the principle of the debate
>not the actual climb or bolts
p.s. Hope you didn't climb the classic Goldstar at Mt Boyce, Cave Climb at the Neck, Joseph at Piddo, Honey Dip at Zig Zag; Jason may have got upset about the retro bolted lower offs/belays/raps on those routes to name but a few.
Hope you didn't climb at Shipley Upper, Piddo, Zig Zag, Mt York, Bardens etc etc etc lots of retro bolting at those crags there.. |