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Tiger Wall - Dribble Bolting? 25-Aug-2009 At 9:42:16 AM mikepatt

Message

On 24/08/2009 brendan wrote:
>so just to ease everyones mind, roberstonja (jason) is not a bolt nazi
>we have been in the Blue mountains for the last 3 days and have had fun
>climbing and clipping bolts, however that is the blue mountains, and every
>area has there own ethics and i think this is where the intial problem
>is. Jason is not complaining about someone painting numbers on a boulder
>in Fontainebleu or bolting a climb in Nowra, he is complaining about someone
>bolting a belay in a traditional climbing area, he obviously feels pissed
>off as someone has taken it upon themselves to bolt a belay on a trad route
>that was not bolted on the first ascent, the route sounds like a peice
>of shit anyway. Its the principal, just like when Robert McMahon & Gerry
>Narkowicz chopped there own abseil anchor on Ben Lomond to prove a principal
>about not bolting on Ben Lomond, if the belay was fiddly and gear hard
>to find when he was preparing the route for the guidebook maybe he should
>have included that in the guidebook, at the end of the day i don't really
>care, i just want araplies to be a trad cliff with strong ethics, look
>at the UK they have tiny little cliffs that are not world class but there
>ethics are what makes the place what it is, its the principle of the debate
>not the actual climb or bolts

Have you visited Gimmer crag in the Lake District Brendan? Deepest trad teritory, yet even there they've installed a bloody great chain to abseil off.. to minimise gully ersosion. Read a bit more about the history of Gimmer and the other Lake District cargs and you'll find lots of abseil inspection, top roing before leading, chipping etc etc... and since when have ethics ever been applied to Arapiles???