Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Tiger Wall - Dribble Bolting? 21-Aug-2009 At 8:58:48 PM gtempest

Message

Just a few points I'd like to make:

1. Noddy and Ed Neve had a good concept in the mid 1970s (a direct route up the right side of Tiger Wall) but the Dribble was a fairly worthless route in its original state. It was covered in moss had heaps of loose rock and was - understandably - quickly forgotten.

2. During the research and re-shooting of images required for the second edition of Arapiles Selected Climbs Simon and I discussed the possibility of resurrecting a route or two on the right side of Tiger Wall. On the day we straightened out Deathwatch Beetle Simon told me that he had done the Dribble a couple of times recently and that somewhere under the mank was a good route waiting to be discovered. He came back on a bunch of other occasions, cleaning up the route, knocking off all the loose rock and working out the best way for people to enjoy it. Finally he told me that it was definitely worth adding to our Selected Climbs guide but that he'd decided to place two bolts at the top of the third pitch. His reasoning was that except for that particular belay the route had excellent gear which as easy to place. I distinctly remember him saying that it was a fiddly belay (for grade 11 climbers) and out of character with the rest of the route. Since I've known Simon I've come to respect his judgment when it comes to such matters. I don't think I've ever met anyone in all my years of tying into a rope that is so pedantic about belay setups or general safety. I've also seen the tragic results of less experienced climbers using a 'fiddly belay' that failed and it isn't a pretty sight. As far as I know Noddy had no objections and I certainly didn't feel that two bolts on the third belay of the Dribble was any big deal in the scheme of things, especially since Arapiles would now have another classic climb which would help redirect ever-increasing climber numbers off Syrinx and The Eighth.

3. In a nutshell. We now have a really good 120m route up Tiger Wall that grade 11 climbers can thoroughly and safely enjoy themselves on. Simon put a lot of work and energy into getting that route ready for the guide and with no real credit. Simon does not place bolts on a whim and I know he thought carefully about it.

4. There are far worse transgressions I can think of than two bolts on the third belay of the Dribble and I don't think Arapiles has suddenly become any less a crag for it.

5. However, I do think that discussions such as these are valuable and are especially important to anyone considering placing bolts (particularly those new to climbing). The real message here is that ANY bolt placed should be carefully considered as it may well be questioned. And isn't that the way it should be?

Glenn