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General Climbing Discussion

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bouldering for short-arses 25-Jul-2009 At 3:19:58 PM Bam Bam

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>You can't change the ratio of fast/slow twitch,>

Although you can't permanently change ST fibres to FT fibres, you can actually 'trick' (train) the slower FT fibres (type IIa) to behave like fast FT fibres (type IIb). Complex Training (apparently invented by ruski athletics coaches during the cold war) involves a combination of eccentric/concentric movement, closely (within a minute of stopping) followed by plyometric training. Eg, 3-6 reps of weighted pull-ups, say 85% max. then some plyometric dynos on the campus board. First part of recruits the typ IIa Fibres then plyometrics 'trick' them by utilising them in a faster fast twitch manner - this is serious training thus needs serious rest or risk of injury is very high.

Nat; Regarding original question - complex training will not gain muscle bulk, but will get you strong. That said, if you asking whether bouldering in a static fashion will gain bulk or not, you should probably avoid all forms of serious climbing specific training until you read some training material, already provided in links from other people.

if you really want to bulk up just remember this formula.

4 sets of 10 reps each @ 75% max (what you can lift once only) - 10th rep should be extremely hard. aim to fatigue muscles. Rough idea of % is 20 reps = 50%, work it out from there.

to get strong, aim at doing 4 sets of 6-8 at 82% of max.