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Training endurance for long steep routes 24-Jul-2009 At 12:03:36 PM JimboV10

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On 24/07/2009 bones wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I've read alot about training anaerobic endurance using interval training,
>dead hangs etc but I'm keen to hear some experiences, especially from people
>with similar circumstances.
>
>I'm at the level now where I'm starting to climb steeper stuff (19 on
>Trad, 22 sport/gym). I can boulder fairly strongly but I run out of energy
>half way up anything without a no hands rest. For example, I find I need
>to rest on the rope 2 or 3 times to get up the long steep leadwall at Altona
>Cliffhanger, eg the purple 22, even though all the moves are easy for me.
>
>Can anyone comment on my rough training plan? I'm able to get to cliffhanger
>twice a week after work and either another gym session or outdoor trip
>most weekends. I also have a very basic hangboard at home.
>
>I'm thinking something like this:
>Monday: At home - Stretches and Dead Hangs on the hangboard.
>Tuesday: Cliffhanger - Repeat easy but steep routes e.g the long overhanging
>19 (a kind of inteval training)
>Wednesday: At home - Stretches and Dead Hangs on the hangboard.
>Thursday: Cliffhanger - Harder steep routes like the purple 22 on the
>high lead wall and the long Yellow 23 through the stalactite
>Weekend: Power session at bouldering gym or weekend at araps
>
>thanks for any constructive comments!

Dude, were we seperated at birth? You pretty much summed up my climbing problems word for word! Lol

I was at the hanger last night for the first time in months and got owned! Sucked so bad...