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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Training endurance for long steep routes 24-Jul-2009 At 11:20:23 AM bones
Message
Hi All,

I've read alot about training anaerobic endurance using interval training, dead hangs etc but I'm keen to hear some experiences, especially from people with similar circumstances.

I'm at the level now where I'm starting to climb steeper stuff (19 on Trad, 22 sport/gym). I can boulder fairly strongly but I run out of energy half way up anything without a no hands rest. For example, I find I need to rest on the rope 2 or 3 times to get up the long steep leadwall at Altona Cliffhanger, eg the purple 22, even though all the moves are easy for me.

Can anyone comment on my rough training plan? I'm able to get to cliffhanger twice a week after work and either another gym session or outdoor trip most weekends. I also have a very basic hangboard at home.

I'm thinking something like this:
Monday: At home - Stretches and Dead Hangs on the hangboard.
Tuesday: Cliffhanger - Repeat easy but steep routes e.g the long overhanging 19 (a kind of inteval training)
Wednesday: At home - Stretches and Dead Hangs on the hangboard.
Thursday: Cliffhanger - Harder steep routes like the purple 22 on the high lead wall and the long Yellow 23 through the stalactite
Weekend: Power session at bouldering gym or weekend at araps

thanks for any constructive comments!

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