Thanks for that info Jim,
However i think you may have misunderstood the thread.
i'm not trying to introduce an offical testing standard or certification systems for climbing anchors.
all i'm doing is making sure that the bolts i place are safe for public use and to check any bolts i come across that may have some safety concerns.
I would like to reiterate what i stated in the first post;
I’m not saying that all anchors on every route new and old undergo an annual pull test, however if there are any concerns about any bolts, when checking them, I think this would be the best way to test them.
the other thing i have interest in is researching strength qualites between different types of bolts, u bolts, single shaft rings & carrots. this is out of my personal interest and curiosity, not for professional or financial gain.
as you rightly pointed out, there are too many variables in climbing (ropes, harness, biners, glue types, anchor types, the list goes on) to establish a uniform standard and regulation for anchors.
climbing is a high risk activity which is fortunately not influenced by this liabelous natured world we live in.
we do it because we love it and for bolted routes, we accept this risk and place our faith in the hope that the person/people who placed the bolts has done it correctly.
all i want to do is make sure that my climbs are safe for my friends and the wider climbing community to enjoy. |