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General Climbing Discussion

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carrying less on sport routes 21-Jul-2009 At 8:24:45 PM yankinoz

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But it doesn't count as a red point if you don't clip two draws on the anchors! :)

My minimalist method is one draw through one ring and if I'm pumped I'll yell 'take' right then and there! (Then either cuss or cheer depending on how the climb went.) I keep a cow's tail pretty much permanently on my harness - that gets clipped and locked to the second ring. Then I start pulling up rope through the draw and tie off a fig8 and clip that to my belay loop with a spare locker that is also pretty much a permanent part of my harness - then untie etc.

My reasoning is that I'm clipped to one bolt and on belay on the second bolt the whole time - so if either blows (or if I unclip or untie the wrong thing) I'm backed up.

Any reason the two chains connected by a rap ring hasn't caught on here? It's so quick to pull a loop through the ring tie off an 8, and clip that too your harness and lower.