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General Climbing Discussion

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Preparation for New Zealand TMC 30-Jun-2009 At 5:04:55 PM porkpie

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Starting with mountaineering is a big step and most people have a few years rockclimbing experience first but then again mountaineering was always the sport and rockclimbing just a refinement of those skills.

Before you do a TMC you need to feel comfortable with ropes, anchors, knots, etc otherwise absieling of a snow bollard into a cravase will be very daunting (and not much fun). I would advise getting hold of some good books on knots and anchors by John Long.

The knots you need to know very well (i.e be able to tie blindfolded, drunk and with gloves on) are Figure of Eight (on a bight and as a follow through), Clove Hitch, Italian (Munter Hitch), Alpine Butterfly, Prussik Knot(s), Double Fishermans and a Tape Knot.

You will also need to know how to construct anchors quickly and safely. Ensure you know how to load equalise anchors as often in alpine conditions your pieces are far from bombproof. Read up on sling angles and load transfers on to anchors. You must have a good knowledge of this so when you are constructing anchors on ice-axes and snow pickets you are concerntrating on gear placement and not the rope work.

You also need to know how to set up an emergency Z-rig for crevase rescue, so look at 2:1 and 3:1(Z haul or Z rig) mechanical advantages. Make sure you can construct these quickly and easily - the person you tie in with will be relying on you being competent.

Finally learn to move quickly and safely, you need to be fast as time is often the biggest enemy in Mountaineering. You need to be very fast (and safe) at setting anchors, getting on and off belay, and especially absieling. If you don't move fast you won't reach the top of anything - worse still you wont be able to make a safe retreat.

Post where in Aus you are and maybe you will be able to hook up with some climbers or clubs and start aquiring the skills you need. Good luck.

PS start saving money it is an expensive part-time!