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General Climbing Discussion

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Lead belay advice 2-Jun-2009 At 4:32:08 PM jkane

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On 2/06/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 2/06/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>>(3) where the route is a bit run-out and I might want to exercise the
>>option of running down the hill to take up rope!! (usually on run-out
>>and bolted slab routes).
>
>An important adjunct to this point is to have the 1st gear placement to
>cater for upward load on the lead climbing rope, in the event of a leader
>fall.
>Otherwise, if you bugger off down the hill while still belaying, there
>is a significant risk of unzippering pro by the lead rope lifting it out,
>due tension in it after leader has fallen.
>

I think this an important point that has been overlooked slightly in this thread. I always try to get a first piece in that will take at least a somewhat outward pull.

I think the point that's been missed is that the belayer should always be aware of how where they stand affects the angle of force on the first piece of gear and the potential consequences of standing too far back.

I think the running down the hill scenario is an extreme example and probably not all that common if the route is well protected.