General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Top belay to up force belay	2-Jun-2009 At 4:10:08 PM	jkane
Message
I think from memory at least one of those two American books ("Anchors" and "More Anchors") deal with this in some detail. I generally only put one upward piece in on a multi-pitch belay to minimise the chance of being pulled upwards enough to rip out any pieces which will only take a downward pull. I guess the unlikely but possible scenario is that the leader falls onto first piece pulling you up and ripping the anchors out, he wriggles a bit and the only remaining piece holding you both goes "pop"! Feel a bit sick just thinking about it. The other one is that you are sat under a ledge sans helmet and get pulled up crack your scone and pass out hence dropping leader.

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