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General Climbing Discussion

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Top belay to up force belay 2-Jun-2009 At 3:37:43 PM mikepatt

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erm.. are we talking about the same up/down forces here? A leader fall will create an UPWARD force, which I assume Evan is talking about. I'm usually happy with one bomber piece for the upward force (Cam, or wire) and a couple multidirectional pieces. I'll often place the upward anchor at the stance when I'm setting up the anchor (to top belay the second) and then tension the upwards anchor with the others when my mate leads thru'. The trick with the upward anchor is often keeping it in place. In the real world we alll tend to figit a bit on belay and our 'bomber' belays can sometimes become a little dubious. The real world also consisits of less than ideal belay stances with often scant belay opportunities..