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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
What's the scariest lead that you've ever done? 9-Apr-2009 At 4:51:53 PM rod
Message
My very first outing on top rope still stands out but on reflection the last 2 pitches of Por El Pueblo Oprimido...guidebook writes up a great sport route (true) but neglects to add the minor detail that the last 2 pitches are 100% trad, I think I had something like 2 small cams and a couple of slings. The belay we were hanging from had a nice rusty peg and shaky juniper bush suspended over 2-300 metres of gas and we'd just traversed an irreversible section on reasonable pegs & bolts. Turned out fine but the mental side certainly kicked in leading the next pitch, I had us totally committed and I still think if I fell at the minor crux after the 10m rising traverse to the right we were pretty well screwed despite having gotten a reasonable piece of gear in 5m out because I just didn't think the rock would hold a proper fall...my most scary moments remain the approaches and descents.

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