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General Climbing Discussion

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Should we stop placing carrots? 16-Feb-2009 At 3:21:22 PM adrian

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On 16/02/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>On 16/02/2009 TonyB wrote:
>>Are there many/any recorded sudden failures of full length (100mm), 12mm
>>od, full sleeve (that is, not trubolts) dynabolt climbing anchors ?
>
>The only failures I've heard of are when the nut is so loose it falls
>off! That's why these bolts aren't super great on routes which get a lot
>of traffic - especially if falls are sideways across the bolt (this tends
>to undo the nut). Even if the bolt is loose in the hole (but the nut is
>done up ok) the bolt will still hold a considerable amount - like a cam.
>Malcolm Matheson has done some tests (In Gramps/Araps rock) where he just
>hand placed the bolts and didn't tighten them up - and they still held
>2/3 of a spanner tightened bolt (ie over a tonne).

Is it just a matter of trying to keep the nuts tight (ie stop them unwinding) or do they need to be re-tightened periodically to expand the sleeve further? If it is simply keeping them tight, surely we can come up with a solution to do this.