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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Should we stop placing carrots? 11-Feb-2009 At 8:47:32 PM Fizz

Message

On 11/02/2009 gremlin wrote:
>Catering for the masses and the lowest common denominator... one aspect
>of 'modern' climbing i can't bloody stand.
>
>Maybe people just need some education as to how to use and critically
>inspect a bolt before they commit to it. IE: long draws, types of bolts,
>outward forces, etc...
>
>I've always wondered how crags are going to look after all these U's and
>P's start rusting and need replacing. Expansions and carrots have always
>been my preference to minimum impact on the cliff. It's not the rock that
>needs the bolt, it's the climber...

Well said.
Not so worried about the bolts rusting (stainless), it's the glue that worries me. Hilti only guarantees their 2 pack for 10 years in an industrial setting (unless somethings changed since I was putting them in, and I've put hundreds of them in).
Epoxy resins continue to cure for years, whilst maintaining hardness and rigidity but little tensile strength; breaking readily with a comparatively smooth fracture.