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Should we stop placing carrots? 11-Feb-2009 At 7:58:52 PM Paulie

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On 11/02/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>Good thing I'm not into modern climbing then.
>
>So, Paulie, what am I supposed to use when I need to place a bolt in sandstone,
>on a ground up first ascent?
>
>Expansion bolts? Sorry, but I don't trust em in sandstone.
>
>
>Not all new route developers are sport climbers, you know. When you are
>hand drilling off a dodgy stance or hanging from a couple of hooks, speed
>is a good thing and as Mikl stated, it doesn't take long to hand drill
>a hole and bash in a carrot.

Personally I go back and rebolt the bolts I place on lead which would be glue in rings or machine bolts (only done a couple on lead mind you) and I urge you to do the same. My motivation to do so comes from the thought of a repeat ascentionist falling and dying because I was too lazy to safely protect it, plain and simple. If it's not classic and you're doing it simply to protect yourself (which I don't have an issue with at all, I think that's great and the true meaning of adventure!) then perhaps some thought should go towards going back and pulling your bashies and ensuring the route doesn't get written up. Not having a go at you or any other 'non-modern' (what the heck does that term mean anyway, modern being 'current techniques' I suppose?) mate, just being completely objective about the situation.

Paul