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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Should we stop placing carrots? 11-Feb-2009 At 6:44:09 PM rod

Message

On 11/02/2009 Tris wrote:
>What about over seas climber? How the hell would they know what carabiners
>to use?

the general approach is to ask a local for advice then play the trial and error game before forming the life commitment to them.

i rarely came across them before a recent trip to oz where i spent an hour or two having a play with them. generally i'm not a fan but like many things in climbing i came to the conclusion they have their place: new routes for bash ins and visual inobtrusiveness in limited situations. when they're offered up i'll clip them; the bash-in ones i played around with were more secure than a few sport route bolts with the nut and hanger missing which i've used wires and 3mm cord to rig protection on.

i do think developers should take a positive view to later replacement of certain bash ins by something with more reliability.