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Training variables: angle, hold size, weight 6-Feb-2009 At 5:53:01 AM rod

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Another 6 months down and 3 months from the rescheduled WG run (cancelled leave again in late September so I got the shits with work...enough to quit and make sure this happens), another update.

What a difference a year makes. No extra weight loss (I'm settled at 77kg for now), I can do on 3 fingers weighted with 5kg what I couldn't do with 4 and can do it for double the time. Getting more solid on 2 finger hangs as well.

Dropped to a maintenance program of 1 time per week October through mid-January coupled with 1.5 to 2 hour indoor bouldering session 1 evening per week (we have a sick hall here now). Recently added a fingerboard 4x4 cycle of pullups to the weekly regime to great effect: quick changes within a sequence of 10x3 finger open hand, 10xjugs, 10x4 finger open hand, 10x4 fringer open crimp; 3 minute recovery; repeat for a cycle of 4. I'm pumped stupid after it and exhaustion sets in until the next night with 2 full days recovery required...4 weeks of that minor addition blew down the doors on bouldering problems that had resisted since September.

Pat asked for progress measures and now I've reviewed the season's results: onsight level rose to solid 7a from 6b (6c her and there but generally 1 move wonders); I never really tested the redpoint level but having been plateaued at 6c/6c+ previously I jumped on several 30m to 40m overhanging and vertical 7a+/7b's on a couple of bonus between the snow days after the end of the regular climbing season, decoded them quickly and they would go easily right now. Climbing partners think I'm good for 7b+ right now but the biggest issue seems more for my head to learn what I can actually do; I have to earn the self belief through some dedicated redpointing. Bouldering wise I'm much stronger and fitter, less tweak prone and much better on decoding movement - the sends come much faster and are far more varied in style; things that were not my style previously have come to be.

Plan from here through April: lower the weight in the next two months below 75kg, weighted finger hangs and bouldering cycle for 8 weeks, anaerobic climbing cycle then 10 days rest before the WG trip.