as everyone else has said there is no substitute for a lot of time with a more
experienced climber. Following climbs and paying attention to how they placed gear,
which placements are used, which passed up, where to extend the placement, and how
to build a belay is key.
When I was learning the number one book that taught me loads was the John Long
Anchors book.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Climb-Climbing-John-Long/dp/0934641374
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