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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
If I were a climb.... 27-Oct-2008 At 8:24:51 PM Capt_mulch
Message
Well Macca, I was surprised myself. Maybe Keith Bell had left a secret stash that you'd picked up on the way - a bunch of those old pieces of aluminium tubes with rope tied through them that used to be called 'bongs' in the old days, though maybe years of grey matter abuse has dulled my memory...

Scenario:

I'd agreed to do a Bluies weekend with Fantini - I dared not go with him as he'd fixed me with his steely eye the weekend before when I tried to back off seconding him on Integral Crack at Booroomba and he'd put me in place with that never to be forgotten line "When someone hands you the end of a rope, you f*&%en climb mate". Gulp.

I turned up at Blackheath carpark on the Saturday morning and we hooked up and ended up climbing at Bardens Lookout - some 17's (according to Fantini) - I seconded all of them (OK, I pulled on a draw once), and found out later that they were 19's and a 20, so I was feeling like I was handling this Blue Mountains sport stuff.

I turned up at the Blackheath carpark again on the Sunday morning and we headed off to Porters Pass. "We'll warm up on this 21", said Fantini. "Oh my God I'm going to be f&^%$ed today", I thought. And I was. He kicked my ass up another three or four other 20+ climbs (you've got to get better at pulling on gear so that it's not so obvious, he advised me) - and I started to feel I wasn't really handling this Blue Mountains sports stuff.

We headed down to the SSCC4 area, where Fantini was keen on doing a route to the right of that big chimney/roof area. Lo and behold there was Zac and Macca. We all introduced ourselves and Zac enthused with Fantini about a whole lot of lines he was freeing at Bungonia. "You know that part where you have a one finger layback, and you have to fully reach up and pull up on one fingernail?" Zac was gushing to Fantini. "Ahh, we used to aid through those bits", was Fantini's reply, obviously impressed.

We then watched while Zac and Macca set up for a climb up this horrible big chossy chimney, leading to a mega roof with a crack either side of it. Macca heaved up through the chimney, commenting that it was 'very old school'. Macca got to the top of the chimney and wasn't sure which way to go. "Bwah hah hah, what's wrong Macca!!" Zac would yell. Macca then yelled down something about not being sure which way the route went. "Bwah hah hah, what's wrong with ya Macca!!" Zac would yell back, obviously amused with the whole thing. "Do you want my guide book?", I asked Zac. "Yeah, good idea, give us a look", said Zac, or words to that affect. "Ya go to the left Macca, bwah hah hah!!", yelled Zac after a look at the guide book. I really felt for Macca - it was a mega roof with an overhead crack that you just had to shove your hands in along the edge and shuffle your way along (ah, for at least 8 metres, maybe more??) - did I mention it was a choss pile??. I think the last time it was done was by Keith Bell as an aid climb in 1968. But Macca did it. He got out to the lip where the crack cut up through and onto the face and yelled out "I need a rest!!". I didn't blame him. I would have needed a beer or six as well. Then Macca yelled out "Watch out - gear!!", or something to that affect, and about two metres to my left landed a pile of those aluminium tuby thingys that Macca had just dropped from about 30 metres up. "Hmmmm, maybe I should have worn my helmet", said Zac "Bwah hah hah hah hah!!!!".

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