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General Climbing Discussion

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N008ie mistakes??? 23-Oct-2008 At 3:58:03 PM glebechris

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>My questions is...
>I've started purchasing gear here and there, and am seeking the experience
>and knowledge of people that have started off similarly - ie, a noob, getting
>gear.
>Allow me to learn through some of your mistakes.
>
>What should I get and hat should I avoid?
Typically people start with sports climbing gear. It's easier to get on a crag that way and then add in trad gear if they want. A starting point would be to get
4-6 screw gate carabiners
4-6 spring gate carabiners
8-10 quickdraws
10-12 bolt plates
Cordelette is useful
Rope
Harness
Belay device
Shoes
Chalk
A good training course or experienced companion

Later you can add in trad gear and there are plenty of forums on this website if you search.

>What should I look out for?
I personally wouldn't buy second hand ropes, slings, harness on ebay or other trading sites.
>What are the vital things to look out for with basic gear?
Start cheap. You can build up later if you have the money. For most beginners a rope is a rope and a quickdraw is a quickdraw (though if they feel crap don't buy them - move up a notch and spend a little more until you are happy.) Keylock/nose thingy quickdraws are good when you are starting - much easier to unclip when you have back clipped!
I'd look at getting 10.5mm rope - easier to handle and belay with, more durable, feels safer than something skinny.

>Eg- I've noticed the cheaper quickdraws are freakin hard to clip rope
>in to... (ok, so call me a baby...). Etc.
>I take it I should avoid buying second hand gear on eBay, such as cams/wires,
>etc? Or is the climbing community relatively safe in this regard...?

I've bought off eBay and never had a problem. If you stick to buying name brand metal gear (cams, carabiners, hexes, nuts etc) and check them when you get them for cracks, damage, scarring etc. Be particular circumspect about the slings on cams. Potentially replace any rope or webbing on hexes if it looks faded, rough, split or otherwise dodgy (rope and webbing can be weakened by UV, but also by other substances that don't present such obvious symptoms). But these are my opinions - it would be sensible to get someone to check anything out for you.
>I have harnesses, shoes, a few carabiners and quickdraws, 60m dynamic
>climbing rope, 15m static, 7 step etier/aide, prusik ropes (x5), slings,
>chalk, finger tape.
Not sure why the etrier is there - unless you are going straight into aiding....
>Also, I was wondering if anyone abseils/descends on dynamic rope? Is this
>necessarily bad for dynamic rope?
>I ask because I was thinking of anchoring at the top, descending and climbing
>back up solo with a prussik as a self belay - is this a bad idea? Do I
>just need to find some climbing friends that actually want to do stuff
>outdoors...?

Most guys will take one rope to a crag and climb/descend/abseil etc on that one dynamic rope. A static can be useful if you want to abseil in to a crag and climb out - it abseils better and can be left in place as an escape route - it is much easier to ascend a static in my experience than a dynamic. Abseiling on a spare static would preserve your dynamic rope, but you would carry in more gear - and you'd need to get a longer static than you currently have.

Roped solo climbing is a bit specialist and relatively high risk. Certainly wouldn't be doing that on a single prussic. Search these forums for "Solo Aiding a beginners intro". and then don't do it until you really understand your gear and rope work.
>
>Any advice would be greatly welcomed! :D

Do a course, or find an experienced partner and second up stuff. Then move on to the sharp end and build up your knowledge. Before you pile into anything - try reading some of the accident reports.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Dan.