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General Climbing Discussion

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Sling angle 20-Oct-2008 At 9:21:26 AM Ronny

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On 16/10/2008 bomber pro wrote:

>the angle of the sling is not an issue! the sling runs flat around the
>bollard, and at the last point of
>contact runs directly to the carabiner, as Wendy says, this is not a two
>point set up where the
>increased angles add extra load to the two individual points, but rather
>relies on the strength of the
>sling in a straight line around the bollard, and then a straight line
>to the carabiner, with no three way
>loading going on at all.

In the top left drawing in the diagram it is a "three way loading" situation in the sense that the tension in the sling will not be equal to the load placed on the setup (by the abseiler or whatever). If the angle between the slings is less than a certain size (about 90deg?) the tension will be less than the load. If the angle is greater than that amount the tension will be greater than the load. So if you can only just squeeze the sling over the bollard it will likely have quite a high tension (whether this is enough to be dangerous will depend on all sorts of other factors). Tying a knot won't change this - the angle still makes the differnce (as shown on the diagram).

As I read it, this is what davids was asking about.

BP is right though that it is not a "three way loading" in the sense that the force on the bollard will be equal to the load on the biner.