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General Climbing Discussion

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Remote/Alpine Bailouts 15-Oct-2008 At 1:04:45 PM GoUp!

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1/ It may seem obvious but try to avoid the failure in the first place. Plan for success but be capable (and 'big' enough) to accept failure. Climb with someone who you have absolute confidence in and who has similar goals and capabilities. Choose your weather wisely. Have the ability to climb quick, keep super focussed (GoUP!) and stay hydrated. Keep in mind though that it is worth scoping potential descent routes whilst climbing so you are fore-warned before the event.
2/ Remember that your pyschological barrier is often far less than what you can physically cope with (ie harden up and deal with it). Epics often are the most memorable things and what you'll remember about climbing. You can climb in the rain/wind/snow - its just harder thats all and is great practice for bigger and better things.
3/ Ok, you've decide to pull the pin. Be committed to going down and fast (as there is probably a good reason to get outta there quick otherwise you'd be sticking it out). No ifs or buts, no changing mind - you are now in GoDown mode. Its worth practicing once or twice as the skills are somewhat different to going up. Climbing with two ropes can increase your rate of descent as you can go further. Take precautionary measures if your rapping on two ropes you know stretch differently (eg a 9 vs a thin or static zip or variation of) - differential pull/stretch can cause the rope to cut through tape resulting in a very bad day (maybe thread a biner rather than tape?). We've used the Euro death knot (overhand) with success to prevent jamming in cracks - double fishermans etc jam easier in cracks etc. Tie knots in the end of the rope so you don't abseil off. Don't let go of the ropes when you get to the next belay point, else they may swing out of reach (blame the wind!). Work as a team - first person down also sets up the next ab point and begins threading the rope, second person down then pull the rope, and voila the next ab is ready to go, repeat as necessary. Use bomber anchors as you will be weighting (and maybe bouncing/swinging) on them. Set your knot over edges, below cracks or other nasty bits that may snag it. You may even need to leave a biner so the rope pulls easier. Make sure the rope end going up has no knots in it before pulling. Send the single man down first to test the abseil - the married man with kids has a lot more responsibility! As per WWS suggestion - take prussics or a tribloc in case your descent leaves you in a bad place - also handy for unsticking ropes, some tat, and don't be afraid to leave gear behind - its just gear and is relatively cheap in the big scheme of things. Avoid abseiling with a pack on - hang it from your harness. Use care pulling the ropes to prevent dislodging rocks and killing everyone - on a belay there is nowhere to run and hide. When the abseil point is really dodgy the person at the anchor may elect to unclip from it or tie in to something else - no point in both dying if the ab anchor rips.
4/ Though it is a great way to celebrate your 'successful failure', don't mess up the finale by smoking zoomers at the base and then getting lost on the walk out!