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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Anyone for Tennis Elbow 28-Sep-2008 At 7:56:39 PM Capt_mulch

Message

There are two types of tennis elbow (tendinitis) you can get - outside the elbow and inside the elbow. The outside the elbow one is from crimping and the associated 'chicken winging' of your arm (crimping with elbows out wide). I gave myself tendinitis (inside elbow) last summer by training too hard whilst getting back into climbing, and doing too many chin-up type drills. The only way to get rid of it is to back right off on the training, or not doing the type of climbing that exacerbates it (crimping etc.). I have found that the 'inside elbow' tendinitis will not be exacerbated now if I do chin-ups singly, with a five second or so wait between each one (taking all weight on your feet of course). This type of chin-up corresponds with what you do in climbing anyway, unless you are the Hubers, who dyno between mantles. It took 3-4 months of backing right off before my tendinitis went away, and I am close to your age (but nowhere near as old as Mikl :-), so we probably have similar recovery physiology.