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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Sport-o Poacher

11:06:01 AM
Im looking for other climbers perspective on this one
I found a brilliant undeveloped cliff, borrowed a drill and bolted one line on it. I also drilled holes to install anchors and inspect another line. Then I had to leave the country and work for about three months.
While I was gone, word leaked of this cliff. Another climber visited and began bolting the hell out of it! He bolted lines right next to mine and cleaned and bolted the line below my drilled holes. I know he saw my holes because he tried to fill them in!
When I found out hed been to the cliff I asked him to leave the line above my original route alone. I just returned yesterday and hes been bolting where I asked him not to.
Now Im new to developing sport climbs but what the f--- happened to mutual respect for your fellow climbers. Am I mistaken or does this guy lack ethics.
What do you chockstoners think?
1:33:13 PM
Would have been decent of him to ask you first. Perculiar that some people do so much bolting when there is so much climbing to be done instead at the cliff you mention and elsewhere.
1:54:35 PM
The guy sounds like a dog weeing on every post to mark his turf. You've been too polite so far, I'd out him publicly, probably would've punched him already.
Some things are just wrong, like fat people on TV being glorified for losing weight.
Stand up for yourself champ..

2:15:15 PM
Yep - sounds like the guy totally lacks any respect for you. You did the right thing - he's the one in the wrong. You put the effort in to bolt and prepare the cliff and he's just stealing lines using your head start. I've got no probs with him bolting his own lines at the cliff, but to ignore your bolt holes and add his own seems very rude!

2:51:22 PM
Yep he sounds like a tool....let me know who it is so I can add him to my blacklist too.

Not much you can do about it unfortunately though...just next time be more careful who you leak info to.

3:09:08 PM
I assume you have a title deed for thecliff and associated lines? :-)
4:55:32 PM
I personally believe that you should take a photgraph of the guy, then post it on here with his name and everyone can see who the asshole is. This is all legal and everyone can make their own comments about the asshole and no one will have anything to do with him.

2 wrongs make a right. I would also pull all the bolts he has installed around where you respectfully asked him not to and leave a note for him to go and have intimate pleasure with a goat.

I'm in W.A. so I can't help but hopeflly my comments and support do help.

go get him tiger

5:45:19 PM
Oh yeah, I like these payback ideas, keep em coming!

7:18:42 PM
>does this guy lack ethics

Sport climbers don't necessarily respect trad ethics, so I find it interesting that they will actually do it(*) to their own !!

(*)nmonteith is on the money with
>the guy totally lacks any respect

I notice this is a NZ issue ...
.... maybe you could buy him off with a sheep?
Heh, heh, heh.

9:25:02 PM
Totally lame, rip the bolts and use em to equip your original line, and let us know who he is! "photo"

10:26:09 PM
On 22/03/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>Totally lame, rip the bolts and use em to equip your original line, and
>let us know who he is! "photo"

Nice idea! In Queensland I once had someone 'chop' bolts of mine on an easy route i had established - and then they recycled my bolts and hangers on their own new route about 5m away. Stupid buggers made no attempt to remove the paint i had used on my hangers. Hmm my bolts are chopped - and hmmm look there's a mystery new route with my hangers! My revenge was to solo a first ascent that they had half bolted nearby.

9:01:52 AM
Alright, I certainly thought about chopping all his bolts and using the hangers, but then that just further damages the cliff and makes me a thief. He's f----n plastered the cliff with metal though. I'm really just pissed that he cleaned and set a route that I had already began to work on. Its a 40 meter grade 18 slab. I found the cliff, worked on access and was willing to introduce it to other climbers, but this guy went in without asking any questions and grid bolted the thing...
His picture and personal details are on the way...
PS. He's French.

9:05:11 AM
On 23/03/2008 AZ.Steve wrote:
>PS. He's French.

That explains a lot. They have a somewhat different view on projects!

12:57:08 PM

>PS. He's French.

Never trust anyone from a country that eats onions.
1:29:19 PM
and snails..
11:41:17 PM
thats the way mate post the asshole's picture and name on the net so we can all see him

9:41:56 PM
Ah look were way over here in NZ. If you lived here you'd probably know who I'm talking about anyways.

Explain to me how the French perspective on projects differs from the antipodeans.

Why should the French ethic matter here any way. I come from a place where we replace old bolts with shinny new ones but you don't see me running around plucking out carrots at Araps and putting in my own because thats not the ethic of the area...
11:49:19 PM
On 22/03/2008 AZ.Steve wrote:
>Now Im new to developing sport climbs but what the f--- happened to mutual
>respect for your fellow climbers. Am I mistaken or does this guy lack ethics.

I've been burned a couple of times when I've told a few people about finds before developing (Islamabad at Mt Arapiles for one), so now just don't tell anyone till I'm done with the place...

And nothing to do with Sport climbing and lack of respect as my spots have all been bouldering. I think it is more of a society ailment rather than specific to one group of climbers AZ Steve.

8:37:28 AM
I can't believe you guys ever let the frogs back in after the Rainbow Warrior affair.

The guy's a f*cking prick.

10:00:28 AM
I think you snooze you loose...
Unless this crag is on your own private property it's free for all, you don't own the rock.

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There are 24 messages in this topic.


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